Colorful and poetic, Valparaíso is a wonderful disaster. Pablo Neruda, who has been inspired a lot in this city, I say the best: 'Valparaíso, how absurd you are ... I have never had you dressed, I have never had time to dress, life has always surprised you.

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But Neruda was not the only artist to fall in the charms of Valparaiso. Poets, painters and aspiring philosophers have been attracted to Chile's most unusual city. Together with its inhabitants, it has endowed Valparaíso with an avant-garde air of "the whole valley".

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Add to this the spectacular beauty gone from your hills, some of the best callejeros art in Latin America, a labyrinth of upright and winding calles, callejones and many escalators of collapsed houses, and it is clear why some visitors were here more than once Santiago.